jeudi 26 février 2015

My adventures with cigarette pants

So, there you have it. My first big sewing project for 2015 is ON!
After some dithering about which pattern I could use, I finally settled on B5895, which I had already made before.
As I wanted to start afresh and correct whatever fit issues I might have had with my first version, I did a first muslin using the untouched pattern. And here it is!

I'd say it looks OK, both back (sorry, no picture of the back - I'm not equipped to take good pictures of my backside on my own!) and front, from the waist down to mid-thighs.
As evidenced on pic nr.2, the side seam is slightly pulled forwards when I get to the pocket area, so maybe I should taper the seam allowance to 1/2 in when I reach the top of the pocket on the side seam, and then gradually go back to 5/8 in.
I also think I should taper to a size 10 from mid-thighs down to the hem, to really get that "cigarette pants" look.
Also, I lengthened the legs a bit too much - I'll have to hack off a few inches as I want them to hit just above my ankles.

3 commentaires:

  1. To me, it looks like your rise and stride is too short. Your front rise is the measurement from your natural waist or the pants waist to the spot where all seams come together between the legs. You can measure this yourself by sitting straight upright on a hard surface. Your "stride" is the distance back to front between your legs. This measurement is often a combination of style, current fashion, and your own comfort. Too short a stride and rise creates the dreaded "camel toe". Once these two measurements have been done correctly for you and the pattern then the side seams, back darts, pockets and leg taper will be no more difficult fitting than a well tailored pencil skirt.
    Here a great series of sewing videos. George W. Trippon is a bit campy and the fashion and fabric is dated but the info is timeless. Good luck.

    1. Wow, thanks for taking the time to look at my pics and write such a well argued answer!
      Well, maybe you're right...but I think your feelings about my muslin might come from the fabric, which is actually very thin and drapey, and not the sort I'd use to make the final garment - this is just what I had available at the moment, so being on a budget, this is what I used. I've been wearing my muslin at home for an hour or so and I'd say it feels pretty comfortable this way.
      My final garment will be made in a black corduroy which is thicker than my muslin fabric, so hopefully there won't be any camel toe!
      Thanks very much anyway for this kind advice and for sharing the video, I'll make sure to watch it!

    2. Erm...looking back at my picture, I can guess where your "camel toe impression" comes from...but I swear it's not there IRL!
      Anyway, don't worry...I don't like to hurry when I'm sewing, so I'd rather make sure my fit is as good as can be before cutting the final garment!