First UFO : finished at last!

Hi folks!
Remember the Lonsdale dress I mentioned in this post? Well, it's over now!

As I said last year, I first thought, as I'd read before that Sewaholic caters for pear-shaped ladies, that i'd need an FBA, not thinking of myself as pear shaped. However it turned out that what I needed was more room at the waist. I therefore proceeded to add whatever was needed, made 2 bodice muslins that didn't fit...and then, before I knew it, my holidays were over, and the time to wear breezy summer dresses was gone. So I stuffed my muslins away and worked on some Fall sewing.

But...I didn't want to call it a day! So, a bit more than two weeks ago, I took the most recent of my 2 muslins and tried it on again. As it was still too tight at the waist, and I didn't want to bother altering my traced pattern one more time, I decided to re-trace the whole bodice entirely, grading up from a size 6 at the bust, to a size 8 at the waist and hips. And, lo and behold, the fit of my 3rd muslin was much better!

Once that matter was settled, putting the whole dress together was a really quick and pleasant job. The only other alteration I made was to move the loops to the side a little bit, so the straps didn't cover my back tat.

At first I wanted to finish all the seams in the skirt with bias strip, but I finally just finished the center back seam and the zipper this way, using a cute anchor print bias trim. The other seams are just turned under and stitched, which is probably going to be my new favorite seam finish for light fabrics. I also handpicked the zipper and I have to say I really love that way of attaching zippers! I'm still a bit awkward with my machine when it comes to attaching zippers (remember this epic invisible zipper fail on my Lily dress?) and this technique allows me to get as close as I can to an invisible zipper (even if it's not an invisible zipper per say).

Here, you can see the anchor print bias trim and the lace-trimmed hem. Sorry about the flash, but if I hadn't used it you couldn't have seen the lace!

I also wanted to finish the hem with lace, which is probably not the best idea I ever had. It just took AGES. And although it doesn't show unless you have your nose sticked to it, it looks like weird scalloped stitches  on the right side of the dress (er...let's just say it's an intentional design effect, shall we?). Lesson learned, and note to myself : If you're not patient enough to make it fancy, then keep it simple. And if you want to do this kind of finish, underline, so it doesn't show on the outside.

And now, a few technical details : 

Pattern : Sewaholic Lonsdale dress

Fabric : 100% navy polkadot cotton lawn

Notions : zipper, bias trim, lace trim

Any difficulties ? None whatsoever, although I tried to make things complicated when I should have kept them simple (lace-trimmed hem vs simple hem).

Wear again ? Sure, as often as possible! This is a great dress for week-ends, easy to dress up or down.

Make again ? Not sure yet ...but I might, considering how quick it is to make!I just have to find the right fabric!

Other outfit details : 

Hair flowers from Claire's (big white rose) and Paradirama (orange orchid)

Belt and handbag from H&M's

Bluebird sandals from Miss L Fire.

Chiffon scarf (on handbag) from Rockahula Isla Retro Delights

Vogue sunglasses from my local optician, a few years ago.

Fabric splurge : C'est grave, docteur?

Sorry for this title, but I couldn't find how to translate this typically French expression and chose to just leave it this way.

Thanks to some new IRL sewing acquaintances I met through Thread and Needles, I have started rummaging in the bins in my local Toto fabric store (sorry, I'm not giving you the link for their website because it does'nt seem to work, but for those who don't live in France, Toto is a place where you can find fabrics by weight, and when you're lucky it's really, really cheap. They also specialize in wax and African fabrics), and ever since I started, it seems I am doomed. Doomed to never leave this place, whenever I come in, without buying something.

Here's what I scored recently :

Anchor print cotton : this cost me 0.70€ and I think I just have enough for a top. And if I use Colette's Sorbetto pattern, it will be an almost free top - 0.70€ for a garment, who can beat that?

Hokusai Wave cotton in pink : although this 100% cotton fabric has a weird, somewhat paper-y hand, I fell in love with the print the minute I saw it! I hope it is going to be softer once I wash it, though. To keep it in a sort of Japanese/nautical theme, I'll probably make a Sencha blouse with it. All I have left to find is mother-of-pearl buttons to go with it!










Surfboard cotton : I got 3m of this one in 140cm width! This should be more than enought to make the shirt from B 5895. (Now looking for a fabric to make the pants!)

Lobster cotton : I first saw this fabric in the hands of an old lady, in the "fabrics by weight" section. Of course, I had to have it! I think the tie top from Wearing History's Sunkissed Sweetheart beach separates would really look fun in this print. And maybe I'd have enough to make the matching shorts...we'll see!

Grey/blue linen/viscose blend : I've been looking for AGES for the right chambray/lightweight denim to turn into a Ceylon. I love that pattern, I've had it for over a year and have not made it yet for lack of THE perfect fabric to give it that casual, everyday-wearable (oops...have I just made up a new word?) look...but now I found this fabric, I have no excuse left not to make it!I might also make the back yoke in a contrasting fabric. Plaid, checks, bandana print fabric...something with a western feel to it. What would you think?

Finally, this was not from a splurge but a birthday gift from my sister : a generous yardage of beautiful raspberry pink silk from Lyon, the French city of Silk. I think I will have more than enough of it to make another Sencha top, probably with some beading around the neckline (possibly something inspired by the gown Fleur is wearing in this post...but I have yet to learn how to make it!) 


Well, I think my sewing plan for this summer is going to be heavy!I'll have to get organized, but I don't know what to start with!

Smooth sailing pants : how to turn the side zipper into a side button closure

Better late than never...Sorry for not posting at all in June but my work schedule was very, very tight and it was therefore harder to find time for blogging! Anyway, here you go! Watch out, this is a photo-heavy post!

I’ve already made a wintery, dark green wool version of the Smooth Sailing pants. I had hardly finished it when I started thinking, why not make one summer version? Or 2, or 3…? And then, why not using buttons instead of a zipper closure? Thing is, I didn’t know how to do that…however, after a bit of asking around and drafting, I figured out how to do it, and I can now propose you a little tutorial about how to convert a side zipper into a side button closure.

My method might not be very academic, but I can still share it with you, for what it’s worth. Hope you enjoy it!

How to convert a side zipper into a side button closure?

To begin with, we are going to draft a little pattern piece to make the button placket. Here are the measurements you will need to draw it:

• Length (I chose the same length as the zipper advised in the pattern, i.e. 12cm/ 6in) – be careful to include your seam allowance in the length )
• Width : you will have to take into account the diameter of your buttons, plus the space you want on each side of the buttons, plus the seam allowance. My pattern piece is thus 6cm wide at its widest point.
• Button diameter (here, 2cm).

Here is my pattern. My buttons were 2cm wide and I decided to leave 1 cm on each side, plus one more cm (1/2 in) as a seam allowance. There are 2 cm between the top button and the upper edge of the pattern, seam allowance included, and 1.5 cm between each button. More space is left – about 3 cm – between the bottom button and the lower edge of the pattern. All in all, I used 5 buttons, including the one at the waistband.

You will cut 4 of these pattern pieces (following the grainline of the fabric), 2 of which being reinforced with fusible interfacing.

Then, take 2 of each pattern pieces - one of them interfaced, but not the other, and sew them, right sides together, following the curved line.

Grade your seam allowances, notch when needed, and then turn them to the right side.

Then proceed to put your pants together. Follow the pattern instructions until you have to insert the zipper.

Take your button placket pieces. The piece on which you will sew the buttons is going to be attached to the left back part of the pants, the other to the left front.

Pin one of your button plackets to the left front part of pants, right sides together, as shown below.

Stitch, then flip it to the wrong side of your pants.

Press, then trim the seam allowance that will end up facing the wrong side of the fabric...

Flip to the wrong side once more...

Topstitch...

Here’s how it’s going to look like, once the buttonholes are made :

(Yes, I know, I handworked my buttonholes somewhat hastily and it shows...)

Now, take the back left part of your pants and attach the piece on which the buttons will be sewn. Pin it right sides together and stitch. Then, as you did previously, fold your seam allowance to the wrong side of your fabric and topstitch in place.

Here’s how it looks, once the buttons are sewn in place :

You can now proceed with your sewing, following pattern instructions, until you get to the waistband part.

As one of the sides of your button placket sticks out (the one which is going to carry the buttons), you will have to cut the waistband longer so you encase it within your waistband. As for me, I cut a 32 in. length for the waistband, but if you are not sure, the better is to make it longer than needed and then cut the excess. Interface your waistband as instructed on the pattern and carefully mark some folds, this will help you sew it in place afterwards :

You will first fold your waistband in the middle, lengthwise, and press. Then, you will fold the raw edges of your waistband, first at each end - fold about 1 cm towards the wrong side of your waistband and press. Do the same with the lowest part of the waistband, which will be attached to your pants. Then stitch your waistband as instructed on the pattern. Remember to tuck the raw edges inside at each end of your waistband and stitch it shut. You can topstitch your waistband if you like. I chose not to make the belt loops, so that the side button closure could be the main center of interest.

(Sorry, I stupidly forgot to take pictures to illustrate that part.)

Your pants will now be close to finished! All you’ve got left to do is make your buttonholes (4 on the placket + 1 on the waistband), either by machine or by hand, and then sew your buttons in place.

Watch out where you sew your buttons : when I made a muslin of my side-buttoned pants, I had overlapped the two parts of my button placket (buttonholes over buttons) and made marks with chalk inside the buttonholes to mark the spot for the buttons. Which I sewed, then, right on the middle of the lines I had drawn, only to find out later that the buttonholes were actually pulling on the buttons and that the 2 parts of my button placket did not overlap anymore - there was a gap of about 5mm where everything should have overlapped smoothly.

To avoid this, when I sewed the final garment, I did not sew my buttons right in the middle of the chalk lines - I slightly pushed them to the right. The picture below shows that the buttons are not quite sewn on the spot originally made for them (the little arrow is pointing that mark, which you can barely see).

As a result, the 2 parts of my button placket overlap just as they should and there is no gap (see below!).

When you’ve reached this point, all you’ve got left to do is...well, hem your pants (with or without cuffs), wear them and be happy!      

Side note : I really can't understand why, but my cat keeps chewing at the buttons of these pants and trying to bite them off whenever I'm not looking. I swear, even when I'm just sitting on the couch, she's trying to eat those damn buttons - and she even succeeded in splitting one of them in 2. B****.